New York publisher, Frank Leslie himself, wrote of his 1878 journey from New York to San Francisco taken just a few years after the Golden Spike was set at Promontory Point joining the East and West coasts together for the first time. Although his descriptions tell of his numerous tribulations, railroad travel was revolutionary in its day. Journeys that formerly took weeks to complete, suddenly could be done in 4-5 days, coast to coast with the engines chugging along 24/7 making about 35 mph on average.
Credit for the following goes to:
FROM our Pullman hotel-car, the last in the long train, to
the way-car which follows closely on the engine, there is a vast discount in
the scale of comfort, embracing as many steps as there are conveyances. It is worth one's while to make a tour of the
train for the sake of observing these differences and noting the manners and
customs of traveling humanity, when tired bodies and annoyed brains (there are
plenty such even on the overland trip) have agreed to cast aside ceremony and
the social amenities and appear in easy undress. The old assertion that man is at bottom a
savage animal finds confirmation strong in a sleeping-car; and as for the women — even wider dear little
five-and-three-quarter kids, the claws will out upon these occasions. For here,
at 9 P.M., in the drawing-room steeper, we find a cheerful musical party
bowling, "Hold the Fort!" around the parlor organ, which forms its
central decoration; three strong, healthy children running races up and down
the aisle, and scourging each other with their parents' shawl-straps ; a
consumptive invalid, bent double in a paroxysm of coughing ; four parties,
invisible, but palpable to the touch, wrestling in the agonies of the toilet
behind the closely buttoned curtains of their sections, and trampling on the
toes of passers-by as they struggle with opposing draperies; a mother engaged
in personal combat (also behind the curtains) with her child in the upper
berth, and two young lovers, dead to all the world exchanging public
endearments in a remote corner. Who could bear these things with perfect
equanimity? Who could accept with smiles
the company of six adults at the combing and washing stages of one's
toilet? Who could rise in the society,
and under the close personal scrutiny of twenty-nine fellow-beings, jostle them
in their seats all day, eat in their presence, take naps under their very eyes,
lie down among them, and sleep — or try to sleep — within acute and agonized
hearing of their faintest snores, without being ready to charge one's soul with
twenty-nine distinct homicides?
But if the "drawing-room sleeper" be a place of
trial to fastidious nerves, what is left to say of the ordinary passenger-car,
wherein the working-men and working-women — the miners, the gold-seekers, the
trappers and hunters traveling from one station to another, and the queer
backwoods folk who have left their log homesteads in Wisconsin and Michigan and
Illinois to cross the trail of the sunset —— do congregate, and are all packed
like sardines in a box? It is a pathetic
thing to see their nightly contrivances and poor shifts at comfort ; the vain
attempts to improvise out of their two or three feet of space a comfortable
sleeping. Place for some sick girl or
feeble old person, and the weary, endless labor of the mothers to pacify or
amuse their fretted children. Here and
there some fortunate party of two or three will have full sway over a whole
section — two seats, that is to say — and there will be space for one of them
to stretch his or her limbs in the horizontal posture and rest luxuriously ;
but, for the most part, every seat has its occupant, by night as well as day, a
congregation of aching spines and cramped limbs. The overland journey is no fairy tale to
those who read it from a way car !
We climb into the baggage-car sometimes to admire the
orderly-piles of trunks and valises andboxes, to peep at the queer little
corner fitted up as an armory, with its gritted door and assemblage of deadly
weapons held always in readiness for a possible attack upon that store-house of
many treasures ; or we take a furtive glance at some pretty girl who has been
seized with an unconquerable desire to explore her trunk, and who — under close
surveillance of the baggage-master, who is no respecter of persons — is turning
over the trays to rummage out a handkerchief or a clean collar, or perhaps a
hat in place of the one which a gust of wind just now sent whirling over the
Plains into some Pinto lodge.
Among the "side-scene"sketches which our artists
scratch down by the way, the Chinese roadmenders come in; we find a constant
amusement in watching them along the route from Echo Cañon to Reno, where whole
groups of them dot the roadside, bare-legged, ragged, dressed in a sort of
hybrid mixture of Chinese and Caucasian styles, with their pig-tails twisted up
out of the way, and their great straw platter hats tied under their chins. They are by no means the smooth, immaculate
wellshaven pictures of neatness which greet our eyes in the dining-saloons — on
the contrary, they are evidently of the lowest caste of Chinamen, with stupid,
half-brutal faces, and dirty and unkempt though still, in these respects,
falling far enough short of the Irish or German laborer. They work diligently as beavers along the
route, traveling from point to point with their tools on a little hand-car,
which they sometimes hitch fast to our train, and then we, on the rear
platform, find an ever-fresh delight in looking down upon them, laughing, and
pelting them with "pigeon English," to which they scorn a response,
but sit cackling among themselves in their own queer chopped-up language,
replete, probably, with opprobrious epithets for the "white devils."
Note: The above is
one complete article published February
9, 1878 , in Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper, from the July, 1877 - late 1878 multi-part
series on "The Frank Leslie Excursion to the Pacific
Coast ." The vivid description of this
transcontinental excursion on the Pacific Railroad by Frank Leslie and his
wife, Miriam, captures the experience of travel on the CPRR as well as the
regrettably commonplace prejudices of the 19th century. Frank Leslie's technological innovation, a
dramatic speed-up in wood block engraving, made possible the illustrated
newspaper, of which Frank Leslie's Illustrated Newspaper and Harper's Weekly
were preeminent. Leslie realized that
large wood block engravings could be prepared fast enough to appear in a weekly
newspaper by drawing the entire image onto a single wood block, then cutting it
into rows and columns of smaller blocks each of which could be simultaneously
hand engraved by a separate engraver.
Pullman ’s cars
ran the rails until the 1960s when rail passengers moved away to jet airline
and personal automobile travel. So, we
just missed the opportunity to experience the highly refined rail travel as it
had developed over the company’s 102-year history. However, there are a few travel clubs and
restored Pullman cars still in existence where a
dedicated rail fan might find a current version of the experience. The pictures that follow show a few fully
restored cars that well illustrate the travel experience our Cattle Barons
might have had when they ventured “back East” to catch steam packets for “the
Continent” or just see the big city for a visit.
....hang on Gotham...we're on our way....
...Next, Gotham, THE Mrs. Astor, and some Vanderbilts....
Frank Leslie’s cross-country trip report broaches the topic
of various classes of travel on the same train and illustrates the “coach”
class most likely taken by many of our early Fort
Worthians when they decided to go
somewhere. We packed our trunk, put on
some comfortable, yet proper traveling clothes, gave the conductor our ticket
and climbed aboard to chug off over the northern horizon at 35 mph for hours and hours
and hours.
During those early Ft.
Worth days of the 1880s and 1890s, our
most likely destinations were St. Louis (a 19-hour trip);
Chicago (a 28-hour trip); and New York
(a 45-hour trip). St.
Louis and Chicago
had the big meat packing plants and New York
had the money and plenty of restaurants where our beef was consumed (more about
them just ahead).
George Pullman, a self-taught western New York Engineer, who
had lived and worked on the Erie Canal in his early
life, had moved on to Chicago
shortly before the Civil War. He was in
the perfect location to observe the rise of railroad travel to far-away places
and make note of how long those journeys were.
He brilliantly combined his canal boat experience with the rising need
for comfortable rail passenger accommodation and invented his “Pullman” sleeper cars.
They were finished in various degrees of comfort, then
leased to the railroads, complete with a Negro staff. Pullman
correctly reasoned that the recently freed slaves of the post- Civil War South would make
excellent service staff for his cars and time proved him right. He rapidly became the largest employer of
freed slaves in the country. And what’s
more the Pullman porters treasured their positions and
became highly respected pillars of their own communities throughout the nation.
....hang on Gotham...we're on our way....
...Next, Gotham, THE Mrs. Astor, and some Vanderbilts....